Everest Without Oxygen | The Records and Top Things

You may have heard of people bringing large oxygen tanks while they climb the world’s highest mountain, Mount Everest. But what about the fact that some people climb Everest without oxygen? 

Many records have been set by those who have climbed Everest without the use of supplementary oxygen. 

Climbing Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen is at the top of the world in terms of tough physical and mental challenge. 

Although many climbers use bottled oxygen, which they carry with them to aid in reaching the summit, a few still opt for the more challenging route without it. 

Why is it difficult? 

Many people find Climbing Everest without oxygen very hard. But why is this so complex? Let’s go over it in basic terms:

1. Very High Altitude

At an elevation of 8,848.86 meters (29,031.7 feet), Mount Everest is the highest point on Earth. Above 8,000 meters is the “death zone,” which lacks sufficient oxygen for human survival over an extended period.

At that height, which is over 10,000 feet, the air pressure is but a third of what it is at sea level. At which every breath you take does not bring in as much oxygen as your body is used to.

2. Human Boundaries

The human body is not made for that which passes for air. Your heart pumps harder, your lungs breathe faster, and your brain may become foggy or slow. Without which there is no oxygen to support you, even routine things like putting on your shoes or walking a few steps are a marathon.

Your muscles begin to break down, and at the same time, your decision-making gets impaired, which is very dangerous in that setting.

3. Oxygen deprivation (Hypoxia)

Climbers who do not use oxygen equipment experience hypoxia, which is a state in which the brain and organs do not get enough oxygen. This results in: 

• Headaches
• Dizziness
• Confusion
• Hallucinations 
• Loss of consciousness

In severe cases, it can cause High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) and High-Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE), which in turn may be fatal if left untreated or if the elevation is not descended immediately.

4. No room for mistake (Harder Rescue)

When a climber runs out of oxygen, they may fall into unconsciousness, which in turn makes rescue difficult. At that altitude, other climbers are at the end of their energy and oxygen supply. 

We can’t count on helicopters to get that high most of the time. So, self-rescue is almost out of the question, and help is limited.

Notable climbers who reached the top of Everest without oxygen

Many have summited Mount Everest without the use of supplemental oxygen, but in this set are the great ones:

Reinhold Messner & Peter Habeler (1978)

In 1978, Italian Reinhold Messner and Austrian Peter Habeler achieved the first ascent of Mount Everest without the use of extra oxygen. 

At the time, it was thought that survival at the height of Everest without oxygen was out of the question. They proved what is possible at high altitudes and thus opened a new chapter in the history of mountaineering. 

Record Breakers in Everest Without Oxygen

We have made a list of the climbers who have set record in climbing Mount Everest without using oxygen:

First Man to Summit Without Oxygen 

Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler were the first to climb Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen in 1978.

First Woman to Summit Without Oxygen 

From New Zealand, Lydia Bradey was the first woman to summit Mount Everest without the use of supplemental oxygen. In 1988, she did it.

Youngest Person to Summit Without Oxygen 

Tashi Sherpa from Nepal made history as the youngest to climb to the top of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen. In 2005, at the age of 19 years and 194 days, he did it. Born November 18, 1985.

Fastest Ascent Without Oxygen

Nepali from Nepal, Nirmal “Nims” Purja, reports the best time for the ascent of Mount Everest without extra oxygen. On May 15-16, 2022, he also reached the top of Lhotse in a total of 25 hours and 1 minute.

Most Summits Without Supplemental Oxygen

Rita from Nepal has the record for the most successful ascents of Mount Everest without the use of supplemental oxygen.

Between 1983 and 1996, he did it 10 times. He is the only person in history to have summited Everest without the use of oxygen during the winter season. 

How Rare Is It?

By 2024, over 11,000 people had summited Mount Everest. Also of note is that fewer than 200 of those were able to do so without the use of supplemental oxygen.

This leaves oxygen-free ascents a rare achievement, accounting for only 2% of total summits. In the death zone, which has thin air, most climbers use bottled oxygen to survive.

Reaching the summit without oxygen is what the elite of high-altitude mountaineers do, and it is the most outstanding achievement in the field.

Risks of Climbing Without Oxygen

Climbing Mount Everest without the use of supplemental oxygen is very risky. One of the many dangers is severe frostbite, which results from poor blood circulation and the very low temperatures at high altitudes.

Without oxygen, the body struggles to produce heat and maintain energy, which in turn increases the risk of tissue damage in the fingers, toes, and other exposed areas.

Along with frostbite, climbers are at risk for hypoxia, which is a severe issue that results from low oxygen in the brain, and that may cause confusion, hallucinations, poor judgment, loss of consciousness, and in some cases death.

At very high altitudes, the risk of conditions such as HAPE and HACE is significant. Also very real are the risks of altitude sickness that a small error may be fatal at such extreme heights.

Who Should Attempt It?

Trying some out-of-the-blue attempt at climbing Everest without extra oxygen isn’t for all.

Only those who have been professionals in high-altitude climbing for many years should put forth the effort.

These individuals must have a proven track record of excelling in high-pressure situations and be physically and mentally prepared to handle the stress and dangers that are present. 

In terms of physical and mental strength and endurance, climbers on this expedition will also require a strong support team, which includes experienced Sherpas, logistics specialists, and medical personnel.

A good weather plan is also key, meaning that climbers who are out of oxygen do not have the luxury of waiting out a storm or postponing their summit attempt.

At each step, care must be taken as the margin for error is very small at that height.

Everest Without Oxygen Documentary

 Several Everest documentaries have been made on Mount Everest climbing without any using any supplemental oxygen.

Everest Without Oxygen (2020)

Everest Without Oxygen documentary is about Danish climber Rasmus Kragh follows him as he attempts to summit Everest without the use of supplemental oxygen. Also directed by Jesper Ærø. 

In 2022, the film’s release explores the physical and mental challenges of the oxygen-free climb, as well as the high stakes of extreme altitude. Also available to rent or purchase on Prime Video and Apple TV.

Everest Unmasked (1979) 

An earlier documentary covered Reinhold Messner’s record-breaking ascent of Everest without the use of supplemental oxygen.

This film also highlights the harsh reality of high-altitude climbing and documents Messner’s remarkable physical and psychological endurance. 

Everest Without the Oxygen Tanks in Sherpa Culture

For Sherpas, Everest is a sacred entity which they term Chomolungma, the World Mother. 

They do not see climbing it without extra oxygen as just a physical task; it is a part of what forms their cultural identity and spiritual connection to the mountain.

Sherpas have been the mainstay of almost every great Everest expedition, and some of them have also managed the rare feat of summiting without the use of bottled oxygen, which is a highly respected accomplishment.

In Sherpa culture, climbing without the use of oxygen is presented as a remarkable display of mental discipline and physical resilience. It is not done to prove yourself to the world, but often as a quiet display of inner strength, humility, and connection to nature.

Legends such as Ang Rita Sherpa, who is the man to have summited Everest 10 times without the use of oxygen, are the heroes in Sherpa communities.

His achievements are not only a feat in mountaineering but also serve as symbols of Sherpa endurance and spirituality.

Comparison of Everest Summit with and without Using Oxygen

Climbers who use supplemental oxygen have a significantly increased chance of summiting, as it allows them to breathe more easily and retain more energy. Success rates with oxygen are not particularly high, but they do exceed 50% for well-trained climbers.

Without oxygen, success rates drop significantly at altitudes below 15%, primarily due to the extreme physical stress and altitude sickness.

How do I prepare for an oxygen-free expedition to Everest?

Training for a no-oxygen climb requires intense physical prep, which is of a cardiovascular, strength and endurance-based nature.

Climbers usually put in years of travel and climbing at high altitudes to improve their body’s acclimatization. 

Training includes long hikes with heavy loads, running, cycling and altitude training in hypoxic chambers or high-altitude locations. Also of great importance is mental prep to handle stress and fatigue.

Which was the most recent climber to the top of Everest without supplemental oxygen?

In recent years, Nirmal “Nims” Purja has been the outstanding climber to reach the top of Everest without supplemental oxygen. In May 2022, he broke records with a record-breaking ascent. 

He climbed Everest and Lhotse in just over 25 hours without supplemental oxygen, setting a new speed record for this challenging achievement.

It is a perilous pursuit that has seen many deaths. Only those who are very well-prepared, acclimatized, and usually very experienced mountaineers do succeed.

Do mountaineers require special permission to climb Everest without supplemental oxygen?

No special or separate permits are required for climbing Everest without supplemental oxygen.

Climbers must obtain standard climbing permits from the Nepali or Chinese government, depending on the route. The physical demands and risks are great, which is why we expect climbers to be highly experienced and well-prepared.